|Lavender Field Sutton by Kemal Atli|
Place lavender plants in a sunny spot with good drainage for best results. If you have clay soil give your lavender a head start by providing some additional drainage. Dig a hole double the width of the size of the pot and three inches deeper. Add three inches of pea gravel to the bottom of the planting hole. Mix a good soil, some of the excavated soil and additional pea gravel for the fill. Rest the bottom of the plant on the pea gravel and gentle pack the soil mixture around the sides. Don’t drown the plant when you install but do give it a gentle watering to settle the soil around the roots. If you mulch use a “reflective” mulch such as gravel or shells. Avoid shredded bark mulch or other organic mulches that may cause rot around the plant’s base.
ENGLISH, FRENCH OR SPANISH? OR GO TRILINGUAL?
Lavendula Angustifolia – English Lavender, I Say.
|lavandula angustifolia in variety. Photo by Sten Porse.|
Lavendula x Intermedia – French Lavender, Bien Sur
|lavender intermedia. Photo courtesy|
of High Country Gardens.
Commonly called lavandin, French lavender produces a large amount of essential oil infused with camphor, creating a powerful aroma when the plant is touched or brushed by. Place it near a path so you can enjoy the fragrance as you pass by. It is the most common variety used for commercial lavender production. Since they are hybrids they have an extra dose of hardiness and look a little better in winter than angustifolias. They are sterile so there will be no unwanted seedlings. Propagate from cuttings. Flower stems are tall and spiky. Some of the most popular cultivars are Provence, Grosso and Phenomenal. Grosso lives up to its name. It can easily grow to three feet and makes a really impressive specimen in the garden. Lots of extra cuttings too!
|lavender stoechas growing wild in its native Spain.|